This commit reverts ddd77222.

The goal is to fix nexedi/slapos.buildout!25 (comment 148861)

os.environ is a special mapping object that transparently modifies the
actual environment and we should never make os.environ make point to
something else (see
nexedi/slapos.buildout!25 (comment 149333)
and https://docs.python.org/3/library/os.html#os.environ)

Instead change the environment only when calling SlapPopen. We will see
if the problems fixed by ddd77222 appear
again...